We left the beauty of Korcula early on a divine Croatian morning to catch the ferry to Orebic. We had originally intended retracing our steps part of the way we had travelled from Dubrovnik and then taking a left turn towards Bosnia & Herzegovina. You might recall my disgust at being charged 80 Euros by Avis for the Green Card which would allow us to cross the five mile stretch of Bosnian territory. Well I had news for Avis because it appeared that we could by-pass Bosnia completely by catching another ferry from Trpanj to Ploce at a cost of only 25 Euros, a net saving of 55 Euros! What a result and what a delightful crossing it proved to be sitting on the upper deck for an hour in warm sunshine watching the islands of Croatia pass us by. When we landed in Ploce, the temperature was a rather warm 30C but boy did that change abruptly.
We had been forewarned that the weather was to change but how suddenly and how severely was something of a shock. Out of nowhere on the two hour drive to Split, the storm clouds gathered, the rain started and most shocking of all, gale force winds started to blow us all over the road! Not a good omen for our planned 36 hours in the city, particularly when the thermometer recorded just 12C, a drop of 18 degrees in less than an hour of driving and I hadn't even thought to bring a coat!
When we drove into Split under now dry but very leaden skies, the impression was one of having travelled 60 years back to a time of Communist rule and a totalitarian state. Many of the high rise buildings are of the period, grey, characterless and of identical style and construction. The cold and damp on our first foray into the city on foot did little to raise spirits and we went to bed wondering if we would feel brighter in the morning. In truth, our real problem was the massive difference between Korcula and Split but of course we weren't comparing eggs with eggs!
Tuesday morning after a poor night's sleep and a quick glance outside our studio shoebox...sorry apartment, we absolutely love Split. The sun is shining, the wind has dropped, we don't need a coat and our first stop provides a magnificent view of the City. Breathtaking is all you can say.
It's a fascinating place to wander around and our enjoyment was enhanced by taking a 75 minute walking tour with a knowledgeable and experienced guide. Far more informative than our Eyewitness tome and of course, you can ask your guide questions, all of which he was able to answer.
The Old City was originally Diocletian's Palace, Diocletian being a Roman Emperor who unusually, was able to retire and had the palace built for when he took his pension in AD304. The history of Roman Emperors is a bloody one - Diocletian murdered his predecessor which of the time was quite typical and avoided attempts at meeting the same fate during his reign.
Split is steeped in history which in physical form is there to explore, most notable perhaps being the Cathedral of St Domnius dating back to a quite modern 7th Century. With the exception of the beautiful Bell Tower which was added in the 12th Century, the cathedral remains virtually unchanged which is nothing short of remarkable. Sitting outside the cathedral is a 4000 years old sphinx! Now that's truly historical.
I did venture up the Bell Tower, a worthwhile trip for those with nerves of steel as you climb the open, steep metal staircase, to the top of the tower where you are provided with the a stunning panorama of the whole city.
Yes, Split is lovely and enjoyable to visit although, similar to Dubrovnik, I must report that it is staggeringly full of tourists, possibly more so than its smaller sibling. Our guide did say that you have experienced nothing vis-a-vis crowds until you try visiting in July and August!
Anyway, we have really enjoyed our time in the city and tomorrow head north once again, this time to Zadar where, like Korchula, we expect things might quieten just a tad.
We had been forewarned that the weather was to change but how suddenly and how severely was something of a shock. Out of nowhere on the two hour drive to Split, the storm clouds gathered, the rain started and most shocking of all, gale force winds started to blow us all over the road! Not a good omen for our planned 36 hours in the city, particularly when the thermometer recorded just 12C, a drop of 18 degrees in less than an hour of driving and I hadn't even thought to bring a coat!
When we drove into Split under now dry but very leaden skies, the impression was one of having travelled 60 years back to a time of Communist rule and a totalitarian state. Many of the high rise buildings are of the period, grey, characterless and of identical style and construction. The cold and damp on our first foray into the city on foot did little to raise spirits and we went to bed wondering if we would feel brighter in the morning. In truth, our real problem was the massive difference between Korcula and Split but of course we weren't comparing eggs with eggs!
Tuesday morning after a poor night's sleep and a quick glance outside our studio shoebox...sorry apartment, we absolutely love Split. The sun is shining, the wind has dropped, we don't need a coat and our first stop provides a magnificent view of the City. Breathtaking is all you can say.
It's a fascinating place to wander around and our enjoyment was enhanced by taking a 75 minute walking tour with a knowledgeable and experienced guide. Far more informative than our Eyewitness tome and of course, you can ask your guide questions, all of which he was able to answer.
The Old City was originally Diocletian's Palace, Diocletian being a Roman Emperor who unusually, was able to retire and had the palace built for when he took his pension in AD304. The history of Roman Emperors is a bloody one - Diocletian murdered his predecessor which of the time was quite typical and avoided attempts at meeting the same fate during his reign.
Split is steeped in history which in physical form is there to explore, most notable perhaps being the Cathedral of St Domnius dating back to a quite modern 7th Century. With the exception of the beautiful Bell Tower which was added in the 12th Century, the cathedral remains virtually unchanged which is nothing short of remarkable. Sitting outside the cathedral is a 4000 years old sphinx! Now that's truly historical.
I did venture up the Bell Tower, a worthwhile trip for those with nerves of steel as you climb the open, steep metal staircase, to the top of the tower where you are provided with the a stunning panorama of the whole city.
Yes, Split is lovely and enjoyable to visit although, similar to Dubrovnik, I must report that it is staggeringly full of tourists, possibly more so than its smaller sibling. Our guide did say that you have experienced nothing vis-a-vis crowds until you try visiting in July and August!
Anyway, we have really enjoyed our time in the city and tomorrow head north once again, this time to Zadar where, like Korchula, we expect things might quieten just a tad.
Goodbye Korchula
Our Ferry to Ploce
First off the Ferry in Ploce
30C to This in an Hour!
View of Split
The Promenade - First Stop for Coffee
Market Day
A Tad Busy Outside the Cathedral
Interior of the Cathedral
Only 4000 Years Old! Shipped in from Luxor
View from the Bell Tower
A Long Way Down
A Last View of Split
I don't know why but my comments are not making it on here. Needless to say David and I are totally enjoying your adventures! The pictures are amazing! I love the one of the market place and from the bell tower. The water looks incredible! I would never get out! Thank you so much for taking us along!
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