Plitvice - Magical and Mysterious

Plitvice Lakes National Park has been on the Coy radar for a number of years and today, we crossed it off the list but haven't yet replaced it with something else. 

I was a little sad to leave Zadar because it was a lovely place to wander around and at times, get lost in the narrow streets of the Old Town.  It was also a bonus to be away from the crowds experienced in some of our destinations on this trip although Linda did express some considerable concern about the numbers we might expect in Plitvice.  This after all is Croatia’s oldest National Park and one of the major tourist attractions in the country bringing in over one million visitors per annum.  My bet was half that number would be there on the same day as us even though this suggestion was contrary to my ever present optimistic nature.

We did have a cunning plan for our day in the park and that was to strike out early.  Apparently, the crowds start to build around 0900 and are then constant throughout the day!  Aaaaghhh…  back into my bubble and stay calm!  But no need because getting there at 0815 clearly did the trick and thanks to Linda’s intervention with the man letting people through the gate, we somehow managed to jump ahead of about 200 people who were waiting patiently to enter and made a bolt for the first major viewpoint!  From that particular viewpoint on, we were able to keep ahead of the crowds and in fact enjoyed a magical and sometimes mysterious four hours walking the trails and boardwalks in the park  

Plitvice is made up of 16 lakes, all interconnected but separated by natural dams of travertine, formed by the interplay between water, air and plant life.  Here, it’s nature truly doing its finest work and has created something that has to be seen and experienced.  We felt that we were a little unlucky today.  Every day on this road trip we have woken to blue skies but we pulled the blinds back this morning to see only grey!  It was also noticeably cooler.  But the strange thing is that the grey sky can play funny tricks and does nothing to detract from the stunning colour of the water.

I mentioned magical and mysterious and the park does have a certain atmosphere if you escape the hundreds of tourists, as we did.  Walking around the extensive boardwalks, you feel like you are almost hovering above the water which itself has incredible clarity.  You cross rickety bridges and in my case, I am convinced that under some of these constructions live old wart covered trolls who only come out when there is nobody around!  Bearing in mind just how many feet tread these boards and bridges during daylight hours, the trolls in the park must all possess a pair of night vision googles.  Oh, the magic, the mystery and the beauty of this spectacular place.

As for Zagreb, this is the departure airport for our return home tomorrow but having arrived in the city just after noon, we took the opportunity for a brief visit and spent all our time in the older section.  Zagreb, by a country mile, is the largest city in Croatia but the older part, close to the magnificent cathedral, has been well preserved and appears to be a focal point for locals and visitors alike.  It was a very pleasant few hours spent in warm sunshine and enabled us to enjoy one last outdoor dining experience before returning to the Autumnal weather at home.

This has been a truly enjoyable road trip in a beautiful country and we are determined to return in the future safe in the knowledge that all major attractions and crowds can be by passed.  Without hesitation I can recommend this country for a visit.

Beautiful Scenery & Sky on the Way to Plitvice

Love the Wood Stores in Croatia

Look at the Colour!

Look at the Clarity. An Old Shipwreck

Warty Trolls Live Under Here!

What Lives in the Cave?

Waterfalls Around Every Corner

The Beauty of Plitvice

Never Stand Still.  You Don't Know What's Lurking!

Crowds Building

Zagreb's Main Square

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

Inside the Cathedral

Old Town Zagreb

Impressive Statue in the Main Square

   

Phew! Leaving Split Unscathed

We were pleased that we had visited Split but for every moment that we were there, I was extremely nervous as to whether or not we would be lucky and leave the city without damage to our Avis hire car!

The fundamental problem was that our accommodation - the shoebox - was situated very close to the old part of the city where the streets are so narrow, you can barely walk side by side along them.  This narrowness however doesn't stop people parking their cars and then other people trying to drive past them.  It's a nightmare, clearly evidenced by my walking down the road where we were staying and noticing that every single car was scratched at the front, scraped at the back and in most cases dented along the side as well!  You simply can't afford to take pride in your car if you live in this district but when it's a hire and Avis have blocked off £1,000 on your credit card for this type of eventuality, you are afraid, so very very afraid.  But my fear proved unfounded and we escaped the city on a beautiful morning to take the coast road all the way to Zadar.  Well that's what I thought! 

No, we didn't go straight to Zadar but took a detour to Krka National Park which our Eyewitness Guide suggested was a highly recommended place to visit in Croatia.  It was funny that several thousand people had the same idea as us!  I am now convinced that every tourist in Croatia is following closely in our footsteps.  Linda counsels me to keep calm and be in my own bubble but I hate crowds and there were certainly crowds in Krka.  However, the counselling worked a treat and I was pleased that we made the effort because the waterfalls were definitely worth seeing.  They are not quite on the scale or stature of Iguacu from the Argentinian side (name dropping I know) but you can't have everything.

And so back to the Dalmatian coast line and the remainder of our drive to Zadar on what was such a perfect day.  Every twist and turn along the coast road brings a new and spectacular vista and it's hard to describe the beauty that unfolds before you.   Island after island and the coastline are set against an Adriatic Sea of intoxicating blue.  Add to that the shimmering light of a million diamonds on the sea and you still aren't paying full justice to what you are seeing!

Zadar proved a lovely contrast to Split.  Quieter and seemingly more genteel.  It was flat as well unlike every place we have visited to date which required a strong heart and a love of climbing and descending steps and hills.  One thing Croatia isn't is flat but the Old Town in Zadar really, really is. 

It's steeped in history, mainly Roman and for somebody who loves history like me, it's mind blowing to witness the numbers of Roman antiquities that are on open display around the town.  For many years, Zadar must have been an archaeologists paradise and for me a place where I would love to snap my fingers and go time travelling backwards once more.

Rather less antiquated and certainly fascinating is the Sea Organ built into the quayside and which through a set of pipes produces musical chords naturally as waves push air up through them.  Some of the sounds are quite haunting and the area is a meeting place for hundreds of people late in the day to watch the sunsets and listen to the music.  We did speculate that it must be difficult for people living nearby to sleep with this racket carrying on all night!

We have enjoyed Zadar and our luck with Airbnb rentals continued here with possibly the best accommodation to date.  Spacious, modern, well equipped and easy walking to the Old Town.  Perfect.

Tonight , we pack up once again and in the morning head for Plitvice Lakes National Park, somewhere we have wanted to visit for many years.   Next update from there. 

Primosten

Krka National Park

Krka

Krka

Krka

Listening to the Sea Organ & Watching the Sunset

Bell Tower in Zadar

View from the Bell Tower

View from the Bell Tower

The Romans Were Here!

 

Split Affinity

We left the beauty of Korcula early on a divine Croatian morning to catch the ferry to Orebic.  We had originally intended retracing our steps part of the way we had travelled from Dubrovnik and then taking a left turn towards Bosnia & Herzegovina.  You might recall my disgust at being charged 80 Euros by Avis for the Green Card which would allow us to cross the five mile stretch of Bosnian territory.  Well I had news for Avis because it appeared that we could by-pass Bosnia completely by catching another ferry from Trpanj to Ploce at a cost of only 25 Euros, a net saving of 55 Euros!  What a result and what a delightful crossing it proved to be sitting on the upper deck for an hour in warm sunshine watching the islands of Croatia pass us by.  When we landed in Ploce, the temperature was a rather warm 30C but boy did that change abruptly.
We had been forewarned that the weather was to change but how suddenly and how severely was something of a shock.  Out of nowhere on the two hour drive to Split, the storm clouds gathered, the rain started and most shocking of all, gale force winds started to blow us all over the road!  Not a good omen for our planned 36 hours in the city, particularly when the thermometer recorded just 12C, a drop of 18 degrees in less than an hour of driving and I hadn't even thought to bring a coat!
When we drove into Split under now dry but very leaden skies, the impression was one of having travelled 60 years back to a time of Communist rule and a totalitarian state.  Many of the high rise buildings are of the period, grey, characterless and of identical style and construction.  The cold and damp on our first foray into the city on foot did little to raise spirits and we went to bed wondering if we would feel brighter in the morning.  In truth, our real problem was the massive difference between Korcula and Split but of course we weren't comparing eggs with eggs!
Tuesday morning after a poor night's sleep and a quick glance outside our studio shoebox...sorry apartment, we absolutely love Split.  The sun is shining, the wind has dropped, we don't need a coat and our first stop provides a magnificent view of the City.  Breathtaking is all you can say.  
It's a fascinating place to wander around and our enjoyment was enhanced by taking a 75 minute walking tour with a knowledgeable and experienced guide.  Far more informative than our Eyewitness tome and of course, you can ask your guide questions, all of which he was able to answer.
The Old City was originally Diocletian's Palace, Diocletian being a Roman Emperor who unusually, was able to retire and had the palace built for when he took his pension in AD304.  The history of Roman Emperors is a bloody one - Diocletian murdered his predecessor which of the time was quite typical and avoided attempts at meeting the same fate during his reign.
Split is steeped in history which in physical form is there to explore, most notable perhaps being the Cathedral of St Domnius dating back to a quite modern 7th Century.  With the exception of the beautiful Bell Tower which was added in the 12th Century, the cathedral remains virtually unchanged which is nothing short of remarkable.  Sitting outside the cathedral is a 4000 years old sphinx!  Now that's truly historical. 
I did venture up the Bell Tower, a worthwhile trip for those with nerves of steel as you climb the open, steep metal staircase, to the top of the tower where you are provided with the a stunning panorama of the whole city.
Yes, Split is lovely and enjoyable to visit although, similar to Dubrovnik, I must report that it is staggeringly full of tourists, possibly more so than its smaller sibling.  Our guide did say that you have experienced nothing vis-a-vis crowds until you try visiting in July and August!
Anyway, we have really enjoyed our time in the city and tomorrow head north once again, this time to Zadar where, like Korchula, we expect things might quieten just a tad.

Goodbye Korchula

Our Ferry to Ploce

First off the Ferry in Ploce

30C to This in an Hour!

View of Split

The Promenade - First Stop for Coffee

Market Day

A Tad Busy Outside the Cathedral

Interior of the Cathedral

Only 4000 Years Old! Shipped in from Luxor

View from the Bell Tower

A Long Way Down

A Last View of Split

  

From the Ridiculous to the Sublime

Apparently, Croatia is a country of a thousand islands.  However,  when I started to do a little research, it turns out that there are actually 1244 although it is questionable as to whether or not a tiny piece of rock sticking out of the Adriatic Sea can be classed as an island!  The debate over numbers will rage on for many years yet.  That said, the drive up the stunning coastline to our next destination provided plenty of evidence that there are a considerable number and we had had to make a decision as to which one we wanted to make home for three nights.
Being a party animal of course, my choice was Hvar, a Summer destination for huge numbers of Brits seeking a hedonistic lifestyle for a couple of weeks.  Linda on the other hand wanted something more refined, nay sophisticated and that presented itself in the form of Korchula, the home of Marco Polo in the early 1400s.  Best of three at arm wrestling and after just two bouts, Linda won the day and Korchula was duly booked!
What a great choice.  From the moment we caught the ferry from Orebic to Korchula and landed on the island, we found it totally captivating albeit our initial foray into the Old Town made us think, just for a second, that we were back amongst the meandering crowds of Dubrovnik!  A brief look around, a quick coffee and we headed off to our base for three days, Brna.  It's pronounced Brrrrna which is impossible for me to say properly.  I can't roll my Rs and so for three days, every time I have said the name of the village, I just sound like I'm cold!
The island has a true wow factor.  It's covered in magnificent verdant forest, has stunning views at every turn, quality roads we would die for back home and finally, beautiful bays, any one of which could be a first choice for a three night stay.  Oh and I forgot one thing, the most beautiful clear sea that you could ever wish to swim in.  The clarity is incredible.  My research on Airbnb, brief though it was, led me to an apartment owned by Milicia in Brna and yet again, the Coy luck had held and we found ourselves with a great property and a lovely host.  Can this really continue?
From the moment we arrived, we fell in love with this wonderful seaside hamlet and its peaceful solitude and although we found other beautiful places during our exploration of the island, none of them appeared to match Brna.  I would like to think that we might return here again in the future for a week of R&R because it stands out as a place perfect for that very purpose.  I would caveat that statement of course by avoiding the months of July and August when the masses move in!  The locals have repeated time and again that the best month to visit is September and we have to concur based on the extraordinary weather that we are enjoying where temperatures to date have been in the high 20s and the sky a lovely blue.
I could write reams and reams about our experiences on Korcula but quite frankly, on this occasion, I think I will let the accompanying pictures do the storytelling.  Before uploading these photos, I would also like to correct an untruth told earlier.  I am not the party animal at all and someone who has to be in his bed by 9.30pm every night is hardly a person seeking a hedonistic lifestyle!  And yes, Linda is great at arm wrestling.
Two ferries and a long road trip tomorrow and with a bit of luck, my next dispatch should be from Split.

The Coast Down To Korchula

Orebic to Korchula on the Ferry

Brna

Sunset From Our Apartment

Crystal Clear Waters

One of Many Hidden Inlets

Quite a Nice Place for Lunch!

Brna Again.  So Beautiful

Another Hidden Beauty

Local Wildlife

Night After Night of Stunning Sunsets

  

A Sea of Tourists

We knew from our initial foray into the Old City that it was a busy old place but nothing prepared us for the crowds that awaited us on our second visit.  We weren't even late and yet it was obvious that thousands of people had beaten us to it when we walked through the Pile Gate.  This incidentally was built in 1537 and used to have a drawbridge that was lifted every evening.  It's the natural starting point for a visit and built into the wall just before you enter, is the statue of St Blaise, the city's patron saint, who you will come across several times on your journey around the ancient streets.
Back to the crowds which were incredible and which have become a problem for the authorities here.  Basically, there are just too many people visiting and the city's controllers are trying to introduce measures to help visitors have a more enjoyable experience.  These include a one way system in (on foot that is) and out of the city with accompanying signs although the biggest change comes in trying to moderate the number of cruise ships arriving on any one day.
We did experience this on our one and only cruise experience to Alaska when four ships docking in the same city would add up to 12,000 to the population on any one day!  It's staggering but this is exactly what is happening in Dubrovnik and for me is a pending recipe for disaster.  Every one of those on shore visitors will head straight to the same place.
Our intention was to walk the ancient walls of the city - we achieved this - along with a centipide like line of fellow tourists, all paying 150 Kuna for the privilege.  I would love to know exactly how much money is taken in the day for this experience.  It's a huge sum.  It's a must do however because it provides a fantastic view both over the city and the rest of Dubrovnik which, incidentally, has a population of only 43,000 when the tourists aren't in town!  We did venture briefly around the streets once more but in all honesty, a day and a half is about all the time needed for a visit here before moving on.
The moving on that we did on our final day in Dubrovnik was to get in the car and drive to Cavtat (pronounced Savtat) which proved a delightful and relaxing contrast.  It's beautiful, has some great coffee shops and restaurants, delightful walks and above all else, very few tourists!  In fact, it was a pure delight and although we had intended to make a brief visit to Montenegro, we enjoyed Cavtat so much that we stayed for the whole day.  Recommended without hesitation and a delightful counterbalance to the manic nature of Dubrovnik.
In the morning, we leave for a relatively short drive to the island of Korcula and our home for the next three days, Brna.

St Blaise - Patron Saint of Dubrovnik

Pile Gate - Notice One Way Sign

Part of Dubrovnik's Problem

Cunard's Queen Victoria Visiting

The Old Fort

The Rooftops of the Old City

Church of St Blaise

The Old Fountain Built in the 1400s!

Peace & Tranquility in Cavtat

Happiness Personified

Lovely Cavtat

Walking Around the Bay in Cavtat - A Lovely Day